Acclimatization
I have been in Kyiv for 12 days and have experienced enough to offer a somewhat basic interpretation of the city and my Impressions of Ukraine. The initial rush of anxiety, fear, and other whirlwind emotions associated with travelling to a country at war has now passed. Even the nightly air raid sirens and drone attacks have become routine. And, despite how the mainstream media might portray Kyiv, so far as it faces the threat of violent Russian aggression, it is relatively safe, with special thanks to the numerous anti-air teams working in and around the capital.
Arrivals
Arriving mid-February, I stepped off my coach at Kyiv Central Bus Station into a chilly, snow-laden cityscape. My first thoughts were on the cold. In a place where temperatures drop to minus 10 during the day, how could they not be? It was needles to the skin and sharply penetrated my lungs when inhaling. The sigh of relief for having made it to the city after my lengthy overland journey from the UK bellowed a thick, crystalising mist into the clear city air. I was happy with my decision to pack a sizable thermal jacket and mitten gloves.
After the initial shock and acclimatisation to the crisp winter climate, my attention shifted to the numerous men in uniform who occupied the station. Of course, I had seen many soldiers during my ride through the West, passing through the cities of Lutsk, Rivne, and Zhytomyr. However, here, they were concentrated in much higher numbers, either heading to or returning from an operational posting. In Ukraine, many soldiers use civilian modes of transport due to the lack of military infrastructure and resources. Even official army transports are merely modified civilian vehicles. That is, vans and pickups sprayed green and nothing more.
Uniformity
Additionally, I observed a staggering lack of uniformity in the soldiers’ appearances. Of course, a wartime army requiring conscription will inevitably lead to a broad spectrum of ages and body shapes throughout its ranks. However, this wasn’t what stood out to me. Coming from Great Britain, I am used to seeing soldiers in mostly standard attire. You will see no difference in their clothing and kit, perhaps beyond a soldier’s webbing or customised Bergan. And, despite the familiar rhetoric voiced by the British soldier, their kit, even the essential issued gear, is of high quality.
This reality, however, isn’t the case for the Ukrainian Army. On the contrary, much of what I observed and continue to observe is a staggering lack of quality kit and uniform worn by these men. However, this is expected when soldiers have to buy much of their uniforms and equipment. I have yet to witness the nature of their weapons in person, but I’m not anticipating seeing the latest and greatest weapons systems.
Call of Ukraine
I have not received any official comment on the subject, so I am speculating here. Still, given the extent to which Ukrainian soldiers can customize their appearance, I am curious to know if this could tie into the style and approach of their recruitment campaigns—targeting youth with gaming-style posters that resemble those from a Call of Duty or Fortnite ad. In many recruitment ads, there is no call to arms for citizens to defend the freedoms of their people but instead an opportunity to become a real-life character in one of the popular console games, where character customization is a key feature in their appeal and user experience.
Accommodation
My hostel is in the Vozdvizhenka neighbourhood, in the centre of Kyiv. This four-story building offers guests various accommodation options, from 8 dorm bedrooms to private rooms with ensuite facilities. Because of this, it attracts a substantial range of guests. Due to the present situation in Ukraine, I wondered if I would meet many English speakers here. It is hardly a priority on most people’s to-do lists during their gap years or work holidays. So far, the quality of the guests here has pleasantly surprised me.
More or less, everyone in the hostel has some purpose relating to the war. Yes, several people do not fit into this category. One Italian man, for example, has returned while working remotely simply for his love of the country and its people. Others are Ukrainians looking for a cheap place to stay. There is also a peculiar Asian man who always seems to listen to the news on his phone somewhere in the building. But most of us are documentarians, filmmakers, photographers, artists, NGO workers, or soldiers (from the Ukrainian Army and the Foreign Legion). Most evenings, we gather in the lounge to debate politics, philosophy, defense, and technology until the receptionist inevitably kicks us out around 11 or 12 to close for the night.
Warm Welcomes in Sub-Zero
Often seen by much of the West as a nation of straight-faced, emotionally direct ex-Soviet vodka drinkers, Ukraine overflows with a warmly welcoming acceptance and generosity that is hard to find in England. And it’s not just the hostel that brings together fabulous characters—Ukraine as a whole does. I am not sure that within the first days of arriving in England, a foreigner would find themselves sitting at the table of a family that has prepared a feast of traditional foods for them to try. But that was the case for me as, only 3 days into my arrival here, I found myself in the backseat of an old soviet vehicle driving to one of the many apartment blocks on the city’s outskirts to do just that.
Additionally, I have met numerous other people eager to give up their time and energy for me here, either to help document the country and its people or to spend quality time together. So far, a stand-out character is a woman named Katya. This ex-model spent much of her early career in China until she turned to journalism and academia and, most recently, became a mother to a beautiful young boy. We have already taken her Tesla to visit Irpin, and she has introduced me to more of her well-connected friends in the cultural sector. I have yet to meet her husband, who works in the military, but I am sure I will move east with an outfit soon.
Networking & Events
Through her extensive network, Katya also connected me with the director of an orphanage in Kyiv. We were supposed to meet last week, but unfortunately, she was too sick to do so due to a virus that is making the rounds—one I had only just recovered from. But this should go ahead sometime in the coming week. For the nature of my project here, these certainly will be high-value subjects—individuals with stories the world should hear.
A notable event I shouldn’t miss is my attendance at a recent dance event and the International Centre of Culture and the Arts. Marina, a neighbour of the family I visited on the outskirts, who acted as a translator, made the recommendation for me shortly after my visit. And, of course, as a photographer, I needed to gain access backstage to take valuable photographs. So, I asked if this was possible. Maria connected me to a woman who knew the director. I asked her, and within 24 hours, I had a positive response. I can’t tell you just how liberating it is to work in such an open country. In the bureaucratic red-taped and un-friendly nightmare that is the UK, such a thing would never happen.
Opening the Airlock
Nevertheless, the adjustment period is over, and it is time to start doing the work I came here to do. It will mean picking and choosing my subjects, as each day in the field requires at least three at a desk to process the information into articles and videos. But I am excited to do what I can to reveal from my perspective the situation in Ukraine as it unfolds throughout 2025. And I am happy to have you with me.
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