Agra is one of three cities in the Golden Triangle in the North of India (Agra, Delhi, Jaipur). The most popular destinations for visitors with tight time frames. Determined to see the Indian wonder, I decided Visiting The Taj Mahal was necessary to tick off this monument. It simply couldn’t be missed. What I discovered on my venture was a very mediocre Indian city, with its only notable draw being the Taj. Ultimately, I was happy to visit the location but glad to have only spent two days there. Although, one would’ve been enough.
My Arrival In Agra
I had barely made it a handful of paces from the train before the rickshaw drivers flanked me from all directions. Usually, there is a buffer between the carriage and the mob. In most cases, I will make it outside the stations before the drivers swarm me like seagulls flocking to a dropped tray of chips at the beach. However, it appears that they have managed to infiltrate Agra station. In an attempt to be the first to the fresh pickings. So, this time, I was fighting my way through the masses of tourists and Tuk Tuk drivers whilst making my way to the station’s exit.
In a place like Agra that draws a staggering 7 – 8 million tourists yearly, the rickshaws will inevitably be as common as the Indian fly. And if you are white, as damn persistent. However, on the bright side, the city benefits from an Uber service, something I can’t recommend enough in India if you can use it. Although, it doesn’t operate in all parts of the city. Specifically around the Taj Mahal.
Anyway, I didn’t learn my lesson because whilst I did use the Uber app to find a ride, it was so damn busy with Rickshaws it was never going to locate me. Nevertheless, I still used it to negotiate the Uber price. I just had to hold the phone with Google Maps open for the driver, a minor inconvenience. But at least I avoided the tourist tax.
Don’t Visit the Taj Mahal on Fridays
Following the drive from the station with two quivering arms, I arrived at my hostel. To my dismay, the manager informed me that the Taj would be closed the following day. A minor setback that could’ve been avoided had I planned appropriately. Perhaps if I were more cultured, I would known that because the Taj Mahal is a mausoleum with a mosque. Therefore, it is closed to visitors on Fridays.
I spent the rest of the evening watching the sunset from the rooftop of my hostel, with the Taj Mahal peaking over the city’s buildings just a few kilometres away. Listening to the muslim prayers chanted across the cities loudspeakers. Relaxed and content I eagerly anticipated the following day to photograph the Taj Mahal’s surroundings and some of Agra.
Visiting The Taj Mahal’s Surroundings
Agra is very typical for a northern city. General poverty is prevalent among the people there. A point that becomes increasingly obvious the further one deviates from the tourist infrastructure. Unfortunately, despite the extra day, I was still operating in a tight window. So, the only glimpse I got of the real Agra would be during a Rickshaw ride to the viewpoint behind the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River. And even then, it was minimal.
I started the next day later than I would’ve liked. A spell of rain forced me to spend the morning inside the hostel while waiting for it to pass. Nevertheless, It finally broke around mid-day. Whilst on foot, I did manage to walk around the entirety of the monument grounds and use a rickshaw to visit the rear viewpoint across the river just in time for sunset.
The Boys in Brown
One important thing to note is that the river isn’t always high. As you can see from the photograph, it reveals a large patch of mud otherwise covered at other parts of the year. I did make a break for it through the barbed wire towards the water. However, there was only time to fire a few unusable shots taken with the wrong lens before the police intercepted me to escort me back to the permitted area.
The boys in blue (or, in the case of India, brown) also told me to dismantle my tripod whilst there. I was aware of the tripod ban on the grounds. However, it seemed a little ludacris to restrict them in the surrounding areas outside. Perhaps there is a little bit of a power play going there. Regardless, I still managed to set it up and take several shots before being asked to dismantle it. So, if you visit the viewpoint with a tripod, just be cautious of the brown eyes and choose your moment wisely.
Visiting The Taj Mahal
You may have heard that, to beat the crowds, it is necessary to visit the Taj at sunrise. Logical rationality, however, is also the consensus, as every other tourist in the city shares the same idea. My alarm began piercing my warm blank of unconsciousness at 5 a.m., and I was out the front door by 0520. Fortunately, I was one of the first in the queue by 0530. A start that was incredibly beneficial to me, as it took 20 minutes to move just four places. An infuriatingly slow pace made all the more maddening with the continuous dawning of the cascading pastel hue lighting the morning sky. If you visit the Taj for photography, I recommend being at the ticket office no later than 0500.
After queuing again and passing through security at the gate, I entered the holy grounds of the Taj Mahal. Walking along a long yellow path surrounded by luscious green grass, the most anal gardener would be proud of. In the centre I arrived at a colossal red-bricked gate adorned with scripture and geometric tiles. This building in itself was impressive enough. However, as I moved through it, the Indian gem revealed itself, framed perfectly by the door on the opposite side of the gate building.
The decision to place the mausoleum at the far end of the estate instead of the traditional centre was a marvellous design choice. The use of leading lines with paths, hedges and ponds creates a magnifying depth that amplifies the magnificent spectacle of the Taj Mahal. It creates an optical illusion of sorts. As you follow the path towards the immense marble dome, what appears to be a miniature soon reveals its colossal nature as these features take up less space from one’s approaching perspective.
Inside the Mausoleum
After walking around the grounds, utilising the blue hour for exterior shots, and with the blue shoe covers I had collected from the ticket office wrapped around my feet, I entered the mausoleum. The interior of the wonder is surprisingly modest, like the opposite of Dr Who Tardis. The optical illusion continues again. However, this time, what appeared to be an epic structure revealed itself rather miniature once I passed through its doors. However, It was beautifully made and full of wonderfully intricate details carved from the same marble used in the building’s exterior.
Once inside, I entered the central room where Mughal Emperor Shah Jaha laid his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, to rest. The mausoleum would be a beautiful monument to love if not built from the exploitation and broken backs of the poverty-stricken Indians of the 15th century. Just a short read about the history of the place is enough to turn one’s perspective of the building sour. Photography inside the room is prohibited. However, in good fashion, I was not going to let this dissuade me.
Departure from The Taj Mahal
After exiting the mausoleum, I would spend more time photographing the exterior. Looking for as many interesting angles as possible, although they were hard to come by. And at this point, the morning glow of the sun had faded. And the familiar grey clouds and haze replaced the small blue break I had witnessed first thing. Furthermore, the heat had me pouring buckets of sweat, looking like I had just jumped into the central pond. It was time to leave.
After arriving at the hostel, the manager helped me to book a bus to Rishikesh, my following location. I then proceeded to vegetate on the reception couch for the remainder of the day, only getting up to smash pizza into my face, while waiting for my night bus. In hindsight, I should’ve used the time to visit the city’s second attraction, The Red Fort of Agra. However, the humidity was staggering, and the sky greyer than a British summer. So I stayed put, drifting in and out of consciousness while leaking over the foyer upholstery.
Conclusion
My time in Agra was brief. However, it was all I needed. There isn’t much else to see there besides the Taj Mahal. Even then, the attractiveness of contributing to the personal wealth of the state officials by buying extortionately priced tickets to visit a monument built and paid for by the people raises ethical concerns. The place couldn’t even use the money to keep the ponds full.
To anyone planning a visit to Agra, my advice would be to get in and get out ASAP. Arrive one day (not Thursday like me), then visit the viewpoint across the river for the sunset, then the Taj Mahal the following morning. And then the Red Fort afterwards if you wish. Following this, get out and get on with your trip. There’s a more rewarding India to see.